“Everything old is new again.” As true in whiskey as it is in fashion, distillers frequently look to the past for inspiration in bottling, writing their “origins narrative”, and crafting new taste profiles that harken back to a “better time.” Though it is sometimes difficult to sort through marketing hyperbole and reality, heirloom grains are making a tangible mark on the industry as more small distilleries experiment with mash bills based on resurrecting long since forgotten wheat, corn, barley, and rye strains. Some are winners, some are not, but the broader effort is bringing and interesting new dimension to the industry as consumers become more discerning and seek out diverse flavor experiences.
Distillers are faced with numerous multi-faceted decisions in their path developing award-winning whiskey involving yeast strains, cook temperatures, and cut times, before the whiskey even goes in the barrel. Local or non-local? Organic or non-organic? Engineered or GMO-free? When it comes to sourcing grain, distilleries generally opt for high-yield producers to save time, money, or mental bandwidth. Large-scale commercial whiskey is typically made from batched, modern commodity grain mixed from different fields, counties, or states, and it may be tough to determine where specifically grain is coming from.
The grains of today are different from the grains of just 50 years ago. Over the last half century, grains in general, and corn in particular, have been selected and modified for specific characteristics. Since the end of WWII, strains have been hybridized by large multinational companies for drought-resistance, insect-resistance, kernel size/volume, etc. Through this evolution, food engineers have gradually bred flavor and mineral content out of corn to favor the production of high fructose corn syrup, and other grains to favor certain types of ultra-processed bread items. Good for shareholders, bad for whiskey.
Heirloom grains, conversely, are historical varieties that have not gone through human modification. Examples include, Blue Hopi Corn, Bloody Butcher Corn, Henry Moore Corn, Turkey Red Wheat, Einkorn Wheat, Red Fife Wheat, Bere Barley, to name a few. Heirloom grains, which are typically open-pollenated, have evolved naturally over time maintaining much of their original character. For smaller distilleries looking to set themselves apart, try something new, or connect with conservation of agriculture biodiversity initiatives, heirloom grain production has been fertile ground in recent years.
For distilleries, using heirloom grain is not easy or cheap. Farmers have moved away from these seed strains over the years to increase harvest volume with greater scale of production. Heirloom grains are produced in smaller quantities. This limited availability can pose challenges for distilleries in sourcing and securing enough crop for production needs. To access heirloom grains, distillers need to build relationships with farmers already producing heirloom grain or work through existing relationships to create or expand cultivation.
The added costs in seed purchase, harvesting, and processing translate into more costs for the distiller, and a higher prices point for the whiskey being sold. If mixing these grains with other commercial varieties, a distillery must also determine how these grains interact with commercial grains, and fully capturing the heirloom grain’s unique characteristics can be challenging. Distilleries are then challenged to find an audience for heirloom based products, relying on a good read of regional dynamics and well-crafted marketing.
For consumers, when done right, whiskey made from heirloom grains can offer unique complexity. Red Fife Wheat is known for its nutty and slightly spiced characteristics; Blue Hopi Corn is sweet and earthy; Purple Barley is robust and malty; Turkey Red Wheat can offer a milder, softer flavor; Abruzzi Rye can have a spicier and assertive flavor; and Black Emmer Wheat has toasty, nutty, and chocolate notes. Conscious whiskey consumers who prioritize sustainability, authenticity, and more environmentally sound agricultural practices have voted with their wallets to support distilleries experimenting with heirloom grain expressions.
Are heirloom grains the future of whiskey or are they a passing fad? Yes, more investment has been made in the use of heirloom grains and bigger players are starting to get into the game as whiskey drinkers become more savvy, and concern over GMO gains more ground. However, market trends are fickle and heirloom grains remain a costly alternative to GMO and selected commercial production. But as more distilleries create heirloom inspired releases for savvy, intrepid whiskey drinkers, the trend is likely to continue.
